● LIVE PRICES
🟤 #1 Copper $5.40/lb 🟤 #2 Copper $5.20/lb 🔌 Ins. Wire #1 $2.50/lb 🔌 Ins. Wire #2 $1.50/lb 🔌 Ins. Wire #3 $0.65/lb Aluminum $0.60/lb 🟢 Alum. Cans $0.71/lb Alum. Rims $0.90/lb Alum. Radiator $0.60/lb 🟦 Cu/Al Radiator $2.60/lb 🟡 Brass $2.98/lb Stainless $0.23/lb Lead $0.38/lb 🔋 Car Batteries $0.19/lb Nickel $0.30/lb Short Iron $0.10/lb 🔩 Long Iron $0.09/lb Tin $0.08/lb Electric Motors $0.20/lb Sealed Units $0.20/lb 🟤 #1 Copper $5.40/lb 🟤 #2 Copper $5.20/lb 🔌 Ins. Wire #1 $2.50/lb 🔌 Ins. Wire #2 $1.50/lb 🔌 Ins. Wire #3 $0.65/lb Aluminum $0.60/lb 🟢 Alum. Cans $0.71/lb Alum. Rims $0.90/lb Alum. Radiator $0.60/lb 🟦 Cu/Al Radiator $2.60/lb 🟡 Brass $2.98/lb Stainless $0.23/lb Lead $0.38/lb 🔋 Car Batteries $0.19/lb Nickel $0.30/lb Short Iron $0.10/lb 🔩 Long Iron $0.09/lb Tin $0.08/lb Electric Motors $0.20/lb Sealed Units $0.20/lb
● Grading Guide

What Is Bare Bright Copper? A Complete Scrapper's Guide

Texoma Recycling September 8, 2026 6 min read Ardmore, OK

If you have ever taken copper to a scrap yard, you have heard the term bare bright. It is the grade that pays the most per pound — and the one with the strictest requirements. Understanding exactly what qualifies as bare bright copper, and what disqualifies it, is one of the most useful pieces of scrap metal knowledge you can have.

The Definition: What Bare Bright Actually Means

Bare bright copper — also called #1 copper or bare bright wire — is unalloyed, uncoated copper that is free of any insulation, paint, solder, oxidation, fittings, or attachments. It must be bright and shiny, not dull or discolored, and it must be 16 gauge or heavier in wire form.

The word bare means no coatings or insulation. Bright means the copper surface is clean and has a characteristic reddish-orange luster. Those two criteria together describe the purest, most processable form of scrap copper a yard receives.

The Core Rule

If you can see anything on the copper other than copper — insulation, solder, paint, oxidation, fittings, tin plating — it is not bare bright. Clean it, strip it, or it grades as #2.

What Qualifies as Bare Bright

  • Stripped electrical wire (Romex, THHN) where all insulation has been fully removed, 16 gauge or heavier
  • Clean copper pipe with no fittings, no solder, and no oxidation on the surface
  • Copper bus bars and busbars that are clean and uncoated
  • Solid copper bars or rods with no coatings
  • Copper tubing from HVAC or refrigeration, stripped of all fittings and clean

What Disqualifies Copper from the Bare Bright Grade

This is where most people lose money. Each of the following drops copper from bare bright to #2:

  • Insulation of any kind — even a small amount of jacket still attached to the end of a wire
  • Solder — pipe joints that have been soldered drop to #2 even if the pipe itself is otherwise clean
  • Oxidation — that dark, dull brownish surface on older copper means the purity is compromised at the surface level
  • Paint or coatings — any painted copper, even lightly, grades as #2
  • Fittings or attachments — elbows, tees, and couplings still on the pipe
  • Tin plating — tin-coated copper (common in older electrical equipment) is a distinct category, not bare bright
  • Wire thinner than 16 gauge — thin wire does not meet the minimum gauge standard even if completely bare

The Grade Below: #2 Copper

#2 copper is still valuable — it is just worth less per pound than bare bright because it requires more processing at the mill. Copper with fittings, oxidized pipe, soldered joints, and painted copper all fall into #2. The price gap between #1 and #2 varies with the market but is consistently meaningful on any significant load.

How to Upgrade Your Copper to Bare Bright

The most common upgrade is stripping insulated wire. A wire stripper, a lineman's knife, or even a good utility knife pulls insulation off straight runs of heavy wire. Score along the length, peel, and you have gone from an insulated wire rate to a bare bright rate on that material.

For pipe, the upgrade path is cutting off fittings with a pipe cutter or hacksaw. The clean pipe sections between the cuts grade as bare bright. The fittings grade as brass or #2 copper and go in a separate bin.

For oxidized pipe, the honest answer is that light surface oxidation on otherwise clean pipe will sometimes still grade as #1 at our yard depending on severity. Heavy oxidation, scale, or verdigris (the green patina) is #2. If you are unsure, bring it in and we will grade it on the spot and explain what we are seeing.

Does Bare Bright Have to Be a Specific Color?

Yes and no. Fresh copper has that distinctive bright reddish-orange color. Copper that has been stored or exposed to air will develop a darker, more brownish tone — this is surface oxidation. Light surface darkening on otherwise clean pipe does not automatically disqualify it, but true bare bright should be reasonably bright and free of significant oxidation.

When in doubt, call us at (580) 490-2096 or bring a sample piece in and we will tell you exactly where it grades before you haul the whole load in.

Why the Grade Matters So Much

On a 200-pound load of copper, the difference between being paid at the bare bright rate versus the #2 rate can be meaningful. The math changes with the market, but the principle stays constant: every step you take to present cleaner, purer copper is a step toward a higher payout. Ten minutes of stripping before a large load consistently pays better per hour than most other preparation work.

Use the Texoma Recycling price calculator to see today's exact rates for bare bright versus #2 copper, then decide how much prep time makes sense for your load.

Copper Grading Bare Bright #1 Copper
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971 Bussell Ridge Rd, Ardmore OK - Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-2pm - no appointment needed.

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971 Bussell Ridge Rd
Ardmore, OK 73401
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